Mount Kinabalu

Mountain – bring thick waterproof gloves (ski), headlamp (mandatory), waterproof jacket, walking shoes, layers (tops and trousers).  Paracetamol!  Chocolate and nuts.  Rucksack.  CameraJ, socks, plasters, 100 plus (like lucozade).  Best to buy food and drink provisions before you get to the mountain as much cheaper – you do get all meals however when climbing so don’t need anything other than a few bottles of water.
Mountain – we got a bus from Sepilok to the mountain – took about 4 hours and booked in advance.  We didn’t book any accommodation but hoped for the best.  We could climb and stay but the accommodation was four times as much as the Lonely Planet quoted (was 2008 edition though!).  walked round the botanical walk (not worth it unless you get a guide)  the dorm was 100RM each (no breakfast) – however after we booked we found a home stay just right out of park HQ which we would of stayed at in hindsight.  You do have to pay to go into the park each morning but still worth it.  We ate at the restaurant at the bottom - just out of the park HQ.  Really cheap and lovely (special friend noodles mmm).  Also bought a headlamp and some gloves.  We met our guide at 7.30am and got the bus to the starting point (you can walk to the start if you really want!)  For the first 6km uphill to the night stopover.  We stopped lots on the way up, some steps but mainly large rocks.  It was quite difficult climb as have to constantly look at your feet for your next step and every step is uphill.  I expect sprained ankles are fairly common.   We got to base camp at 12:30 (five hours) – this is apparently the average time and we stopped loads (we rarely walk and I don’t do much exercise).  It’s amazing to see the porters literally running up the mountain with huge loads tied to their heads and backs! The record time for climbing the whole mountain (from HQ to the summit and back) is under three hours!! Wow!! Buffet dinner at base camp is lovely – and don’t miss the beautiful red sunset above the clouds from the restaurant.  You can play volleyball if you like.  Bed by six probably with a headache and up at supper about 2 am!! I couldn’t eat and was sick (along with many people), more and more people were sick as we ascended to the summit.  With as many clothes on as possible, and in the pitch black, we started to ascend in a long line the final 3k.  The first km was so tough I didn’t think I could make it, empty stomach, knackered, banging headache and breathing so heavily.  Legs were okay though but every step was an effort and I wondered why we decided to do this!?  After the steps and rocks we had been climbing it turned into sheer rock faces (a bit like I imagine the moon looking like!).  Ropes are attached and have to walk using them for support on occasions, and at other times (not often), use it to haul your whole weight up.  Had I been less knackered I would have enjoyed this more!)  The last part involved a few hundred metres walking steadily at a small decline.  Easy normally but more difficult with no breath – tiny steps are the only way forward.  I thought we were slow but only a couple of groups overtook us.  The guide was great, he stayed with us the whole time, answering my constant questions of what is ahead and how much further, and showing the best route in places.  5.15 suddenly we were at the summit, ready for sunrise.  About 20 people were at the top so we sat there (freezing cold) for photos.  The sun rised in the clouds so that wasn’t great but view still pretty amazing.  The decline is so much easier – sometimes almost abseiling almost which was fun and now walking in the light which is easier.  Got back to base camp at 7.30 for breakfast and a half an hour nap before starting off back to park HQ.  Breath was fine during descent but I found it really difficult, each step down onto each precariously placed rock was a potential broken ankle and I was really heavy footed – a stick would have helped enormously! Only stopped a couple of times on the way down though ready for buffet lunch at park HQ just before it started chucking down!  We got a bus/taxi from just outside park HQ to KK for just 20RM each for the 2 hour trip.  Word of warning though, the day after we could not walk, and every step was agony and couldn’t go down steps. Looked stupid but they are used to it in KK, everyone kept telling us congrats as we must of just climbed KK!